{"id":3253,"date":"2012-04-04T13:42:36","date_gmt":"2012-04-04T17:42:36","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.slammie.com\/atomicgrog\/blog\/?p=3253"},"modified":"2025-02-01T22:05:35","modified_gmt":"2025-02-02T03:05:35","slug":"mai-kai-cocktail-review-the-black-magic-emerges-from-the-shadows-as-a-true-classic","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.slammie.com\/atomicgrog\/blog\/2012\/04\/04\/mai-kai-cocktail-review-the-black-magic-emerges-from-the-shadows-as-a-true-classic\/","title":{"rendered":"Mai-Kai cocktail review: The Black Magic emerges from the darkness as a true classic"},"content":{"rendered":"

Updated October 2023<\/em>
\nSee below:<\/b> Our Black Magic review<\/a> | Tribute recipes<\/a>
\n* The Black Magic on Spike’s Breezeway Cocktail Hour<\/a>
\n* The Black Magic Cocktail is a new twist on the classic<\/a>
\nPostscript:<\/strong> The Black Magic picked up by bloggers and bartenders, goes viral on social media<\/a>
\nRelated:<\/b> Mai-Kai cocktail guide<\/a>
\nThe Mutiny is a worthy foe in the battle of the tropical titans<\/a><\/p>\n

Prior to the opening of The Mai-Kai in 1956, there were perhaps other icy cocktails that employed dark rum and coffee as key ingredients. But none perfected it quite like the Black Magic.<\/p>\n

\"Courtesy<\/a>
From a 1963 Mai-Kai calendar. (Courtesy of TheSwankPad.org)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The drink that has spawned dozens of imitators – and even two similar concoctions at The Mai-Kai – has taken on legendary status in the Tiki cocktail community. The Black Magic is the oldest of what some call the “Holy Trinity” of large snifter drinks at The Mai-Kai: The Black Magic, Mutiny<\/a> and The Hukilau<\/a>.<\/p>\n

One of the keys to this drink is a distinctive dark rum favored by original Mai-Kai mixologist Mariano Licudine: Dagger was a dark Jamaican brand that stopped production some time ago. It became somewhat of a holy grail of Tiki mixologists looking to duplicate the key flavor in many Mai-Kai cocktails, especially the Black Magic.<\/p>\n

During a back-bar tour in November 2011,<\/a> Manager Kern Mattei revealed the secret of how that flavor is preserved: An obscure dark rum called Kohala Bay<\/a> that was produced by Wray & Nephew, the same company that previously made Dagger.<\/p>\n

\"Kohala<\/a>
Kohala Bay dark Jamaican rum was a key ingredient in many Mai-Kai cocktails. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward, March 2012)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Needless to say, we immediately went on an intensive search, but short of taking a trip to Jamaica it was nearly impossible to locate. We were told it was being imported only to Florida, and The Mai-Kai was one of only two bars to serve it. After some digging, however, we miraculously found a rare retail outlet that carried Kohala Bay and immediately stocked up. Our discovery of Kohala Bay sparked many other tribute recipes that you’ll find in this guide, and also spurred many other home mixologists to seek out the rum. Click here<\/a> for more on the history of Kohala Bay at The Mai-Kai.<\/p>\n

But all good things must come to an end. Kohala Bay was taken off the market in April 2016 and has not returned. While still seeking out an appropriate dark and funky run to fill the bill, The Mai-Kai switched to one of the Appleton Estate rums as its dark Jamaican mixer. Then, suddenly, a new rum appeared in April 2019. It’s a secret in-house multi-rum blend, similar to one of those we had been touting here on the blog. Click here for an in-depth guide<\/a> along with all the suggested Kohala Bay substitutes.<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>
The Black Magic is served in The Molokai bar in October 2016. It’s not really raining. That’s The Mai-Kai’s special windows that simulate a calming tropical downpour. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The name Black Magic comes from the combination of dark rums and coffee, which sets this drink apart from most others from its era. It was reportedly created by Licudine while he was still working for Donn Beach as the No. 2 bartender at the Don the Beachcomber<\/a> restaurant in Chicago. But even Beach’s top men were not given the opportunity to contribute their own creations to his legendary drink menu.<\/p>\n

Lured to Fort Lauderdale to run The Mai-Kai’s bar and create what would decades later become an iconic menu in its own right, Licudine borrowed heavily from Beach’s classics but also added his own flair (Mara-Amu<\/a>, Derby Daiquiri<\/a>, etc.). The Black Magic may be his crowning achievement, and it was his first creation to appear on a Mai-Kai menu.<\/p>\n

While it’s not nearly as complex, an early Don the Beachcomber cocktail from the 1930s called the Jamoca could possibly have influenced Licudine, since he worked at Don the Beachcomber in Los Angeles at the tail end of that decade. As revealed by Tiki cocktail historian Jeff “Beachbum” Berry in his 2007 book, Sippin’ Safari<\/em><\/a>, the Jamoca contains 1\/2 ounce fresh lime juice, 1\/2 ounce coffee syrup, 1 ounce chilled coffee, 1 ounce gold Puerto Rican rum, 1 ounce gold Jamaican rum, and 4 ounces of crushed ice. Blended at high speed for 5 seconds and poured into a specialty glass, it’s a coffee-heavy drink that hits few of the high notes later achieved by Licudine with the Black Magic. Berry theorized that it may have been an early Donn Beach experiment inspired by turn-of-the-century soda fountain fare. It’s historically worth noting, but probably not a true ancestor of the Black Magic. We consider this classic to be a true Mariano Licudine original. <\/a><\/p>\n

**************************<\/p>\n

The official menu description<\/i>
\n\"Black<\/a>
\nBLACK MAGIC<\/b>
\nThe owner’s choice. A superbly smooth but forthright blending of fine dark rums and tropical juices, subtly laced with coffee and truly refreshing.<\/p>\n

Okole Maluna Society review and rating<\/b><\/p>\n

Size:<\/b> Large<\/p>\n

Potency:<\/b> Strong<\/p>\n

Flavor profile:<\/b> Coffee, dark rum, many exotic flavors.<\/p>\n

Review:<\/b> Mysterious, sweet and floral. Strong coffee flavors mingle effortlessly with strong rums and undefinable sweet and sour flavors.<\/p>\n

Rating:<\/b> 3 1\/2 out of 5 stars (see how it ranks)<\/a><\/p>\n

\"Christie<\/a>
Christie “Tiki Kiliki” White enjoys a Black Magic while being interviewed by Rod Hagwood for SouthFlorida.com (click above to see the video).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Ancestry:<\/b> Created by original Mai-Kai mixologist Mariano Licudine<\/a>, possibly while he still worked at Don the Beachcomber in Chicago in the 1940s and ’50s. The Black Magic was not introduced to the world until he created the cocktail menu at The Mai-Kai in 1956. It was the only Licudine original on that first menu. A possible inspiration was Don the Beachcomber’s Jamoca, a 1930s-era drink containing lime, coffee and multiple rums.<\/p>\n

Bilge:<\/b> The Black Magic is touted on the menu as “the owner’s choice,” but according to a 1977 article in The Miami Herald<\/em>, original owner Bob Thornton’s favorite was the Mutiny<\/a>. The article added that the Black Magic was the favorite of manager Kern Mattei Sr., father of current manager Kern Mattei Jr.<\/a> It’s also been cited as a favorite cocktail at The Mai-Kai by many celebs, including author Jeff “Beachbum” Berry<\/a>, The Hukilau co-founder Christie “Tiki Kiliki” White<\/a>, Tiki Oasis co-founder Otto von Stroheim<\/a>, and South Florida artist Mike “Pooch” Pucciarelli<\/a>. Perhaps the best modern homage to the Black Magic (and Mutiny) is the Kiliki Cooler, published in Beachbum Berry Remixed<\/em><\/a> and created as a tribute to Tiki Kiliki. It’s available on the menu at Beachbum Berry’s Latitude 29<\/a> in New Orleans as Espresso Bongo.<\/p>\n

Agree or disagree? Share your reviews and comments below!<\/a><\/b>
\n

<\/div> <\/a><\/p>\n
\n

April 2020 update<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"Hurricane<\/a>
\nHurricane Hayward on Inside the Desert Oasis Room<\/strong><\/a>
\nListen to the “Covid Chronicles” episode<\/a> recorded live with Adrian Eustaquio as The Atomic Grog blogger makes his way to The Mai-Kai to pick up Gallons to Go. Also available on iTunes, Spotify and Google Play.<\/p>\n

The coronavirus pandemic has had a devastating impact on the bar and restaurant industry worldwide, and The Mai-Kai was no exception. After closing in late March, The Mai-Kai began an effort to keep some cash flowing into the business by launching an ambitious cocktail takeout effort. In early April, we saw the curbside release of four of the most popular tropical drinks – Barrel O’ Rum<\/a>, Mai Tai<\/a>, and Pi\u00f1a Colada<\/a> in an impressive new format: Gallon jugs!
\nLatest info on the takeout cocktail program<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n

\"Hurricane<\/a>
Hurricane Hayward with his Gallons to Go of the Black Magic and Rum Barrel from The Mai-Kai, April 2020. (Atomic Grog photo)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

When the second round of Gallons to Go was announced for mid-April, we jumped at the opportunity to pick up a gallon or two, plus a bottle of the newly announced 12-year-old Distillers Proof Mai-Kai Blend rum from The Real McCoy. Word trickled out that the mysterious Black Magic was also available upon request, so we snagged one to share with friends. Of course, we also looked forward to the opportunity to examine the Black Magic in The Atomic Grog lab (aka our home bar).<\/p>\n

Tribute recipes are typically created and tweaked hours after leaving the bar at the earliest. So having a large volume of the Black Magic so easily available for testing and comparing was both enticing and dangerous. But it was too good an opportunity to pass up, and we plowed ahead with extensive research.<\/p>\n

The Mai-Kai bartender who prepared all of the Gallons to Go had assured us that he was carefully mixing, and taste testing, every batch to ensure that they follow the traditional recipes exactly. I can confirm that yes, indeed, this batch ranked right up there among best Black Magics I’d ever had at the restaurant.<\/p>\n

\"A<\/a>
A large jug marked “#7” can be seen above The Mai-Kai staff hard at work prepping Gallons to Go in mid-April 2020. That’s bartender Max Vrahimis (left) and director of catering John Gelardi. (Mai-Kai photo)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

It was rich and spicy with bold rum and sour flavors in the forefront. The sharp citrus blended perfectly with waves of coffee, honey and allspice notes to create a symphony of flavors. The bitters and subtle hints of secret mix #7 were still there, but slightly different. I now had a blueprint (and easily accessible jug of Black Magics) to help me fine-tune the latest tribute recipe.<\/p>\n

What emerged from those tests is version 3.0 below, featuring all of the same ingredients as version 2.5, plus the addition of a third rum. I felt that the flavors I was tasting were more complex than those I could accomplish with just two rums. Try it out and see what you think. We believe it’s the closest we’ve come yet to nailing the authentic Black Magic flavors.<\/p>\n

The new recipe was revealed during a live online symposium meet-up organized by Tim “Swanky” Glazner<\/a>, author of Mai-Kai: History and Mystery of the Iconic Tiki Restaurant<\/em><\/a>.<\/p>\n

Big kudos also go to The Mai-Kai for keeping the cocktails flowing during these difficult times. In addition to buying Gallons to Go, you can provide support buy visiting The Mai-Kai Trading Post online<\/a> and picking up a few mugs, along with other cool merchandise. We look forward to a date in the not-too-distant future when we’re sitting in The Molokai bar,<\/a> sipping on one of our favorite drinks<\/a> and letting all our current worries and tension drift away.<\/p>\n

\"Tribute<\/a>
The new Black Magic tribute by The Atomic Grog alongside an authentic Black Magic via The Mai-Kai’s Gallons to Go program. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward, April 2020)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Tribute to The Mai-Kai’s Black Magic<\/strong>
\nBy The Atomic Grog (version 3.0, updated April 2020)<\/em><\/p>\n

    \n
  • 1 1\/4 ounces fresh orange juice<\/li>\n
  • 1 1\/4 ounces fresh lime juice<\/li>\n
  • 1 1\/4 ounces fresh grapefruit juice<\/li>\n
  • 3\/4 ounce rich honey mix<\/li>\n
  • 1 1\/2 ounces chilled Colombian coffee<\/li>\n
  • 1 1\/2 ounces dark Jamaican rum (Mai-Kai blend or substitute)<\/li>\n
  • 1 ounce gold (lightly aged) Spanish-style rum<\/li>\n
  • 1 ounces dark rum (Bacardi Black or similar)<\/li>\n
  • 1\/2 ounce Mariano’s Mix #7 (see below)<\/a><\/li>\n
  • 1 teaspoon Don\u2019s Spices #2<\/li>\n
  • 2 dashes Angostura bitters<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

    Blend with 2 heaping cups of crushed ice in a top-down mixer for 8-10 seconds, or until frothy. Pour into a large snifter glass with more crushed ice to fill. Garnish with a lemon (or grapefruit) peel.<\/p>\n

    The spices and coffee form a unique cavalcade of flavor that makes this a favorite of many, but its a combination that has always been difficult to nail down. We feel that this revamp of an already excellent recipe is more balanced, not too bitter or strong, resulting in the perfect tribute to the Black Magic.<\/p>\n

    \"Hurricane<\/a>
    Hurricane Hayward demonstrates how to make the Black Magic tribute, version 3.0, during an online symposium hosted by the authors of Mai-Kai: History and Mystery of the Iconic Tiki Restaurant, Tim Glazner and Stephanie Romer. (Atomic Grog photo)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

    April 2020 updates<\/strong><\/p>\n

      \n
    • The size of the drink: One of the biggest changes from the previous version is the overall volume of the drink. Upon further review, we decided that there was too much citrus, among other things. So we made an effort to achieve an even better flavor profile by keeping the same amount of rum but dropping the total ounces to 10 from 12. We think this was a success, helped by even more crushed ice in the tin before blending. It still fills the traditional 24-ounce snifter glass, with a minimal amount of extra ice needed after pouring. We’re also tweaking the other two snifter drinks, as well as the Rum Barrel, to fit this scaled-down model.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n
    • \n

      The rums: As mentioned above, all ingredients remained the same from version 2.5 below, with the addition of a third rum. The 1 1\/2-ounce measure of The Mai-Kai’s signature dark Jamaican rum remained the same. But rather than 2 ounces of a “black rum,” we split the 2 ounces between this somewhat dubious style and a lightly aged Spanish-style rum. You could use any quality Puerto Rican or Virgin Islands rum, aged a few years, or even something a little older. During my tours of the back bar, I’ve seen Brugal Anejo from the Dominican Republic in the well, so I’m recommending this if you want to be as close to The Mai-Kai’s rum blend as possible. Bacardi Black remains my recommendation in this cocktail. It has a similar flavor to Ron Carlos Black, which was previously featured in The Mai-Kai’s back bar. You’ll want to stick to a Spanish-style rum in this category, but avoid flavor bombs like blackstrap rum. It should play a backing role to the bold and funky dark Jamaican. That signature style, which dates back to Don the Beachcomber’s use of Wray & Nephew’s Dagger and includes the more recently departed Kohala Bay, is discussed in depth below and over on The Rums of The Mai-Kai page.<\/a><\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

      Notes and tips for home mixologists<\/b><\/p>\n

        \n
      • The fresh juices: Equal portions of the three worked best for us when we employed fresh-squeezed Florida white grapefruit juice, a non- or lightly-pasteurized Florida orange juice, and our version of The Mai-Kai lime juice blend. If you squeeze fresh OJ, try to use Florida oranges. Look for more tips below.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
        \"The<\/a>
        The Black Magic in its new glassware in The Molokai bar. (Photo by Hurricane Hayward, August 2019)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
          \n
        • The amount of coffee stays the same, but we reduced the amount of honey mix and Mariano’s Mix #7 to go along with the reduction in juices. Be sure to mix up a rich honey syrup (2:1) and follow the #7 specs below<\/a>. Look for a future enhancement to this mysterious syrup that we’re sure Mariano Licudine picked up from his Don the Beachcomber days. We plan to add one more flavor element to the blend of falernum and Herbsaint. If necessary, you could simply employ a rich and bold falernum, such as those made by Fee Brothers and Orgeat Works (aka Latitude 29 Formula Falernum).<\/p>\n<\/li>\n
        • \n

          Don’s spices (a 50\/50 mix of vanilla syrup and allspice liqueur) remains the same. It’s a key part of this recipe, if used judiciously. If using a straight pimento dram such as St. Elizabeth, you may want to dial it back slightly. It shouldn’t dominate. The bitters was increased to two healthy dashes to help temper the sour and sweet elements.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n

        • \n

          I didn’t have a lemon handy, so I used a grapefruit to harvest to signature peel for garnish. It works just as well, if not better, since it’s a larger fruit and can yield a much longer peel. As discussed in the video below, the garnish was apparently addeded after the creation of the similar-looking Mutiny, perhaps as a simple visual cue to tell the two cocktails apart. <\/a><\/p>\n<\/li>\n

        • \n

          Note that to make the garnish correctly, you may need a special tool. Or perhaps you’ll find a channel knife<\/a> buried in one of your kitchen drawers and didn’t know exactly what it was. I prefer multi-task tools, so I have a combination channel knife and citrus zester. You can find many variations in home goods stores and online.<\/a> This garnish was the only mistake Spike Marble made in a January 2021 episode of his Breezeway Cocktail Hour, in which he crafted a Black Magic (with a little help from yours truly). Check out the video below.<\/p>\n<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

          January 2021 update<\/em>
          \n          The Atomic Grog on Spike’s Breezeway Cocktail Hour<\/a><\/strong>
          \nHurricane Hayward joins Spike for a Black Magic tribute, talks about The Mai-Kai.
          \n*           See the YouTube video<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n